Homeward Bound

Volcanic ash has caused chaos to flights and travellers across northern UK and Europe. What option to take if we get the choice. The check-in helpdesk were very helpful and the supervisor went off to see what the latest news was. The departure board still showed the LA - Newark/Glasgow flight as going ahead so it looked hopeful. Yep all ok. Seems the ash-cloud was not moving south and that Edinburgh and Glasgow should be fine.
The incoming flight was delayed from Ireland by 20 mins, but by the time we got boarded it was 1hr and 20 mins late. This was eating into the transfer time for us to get to our UK gate at Newark so we would not be hanging around much. We disembarked at gate C95 and had to get to C134, hmm not too far then ? Er well it was possibly about 15 mins smart walking, add a restroom stop and by the time we got to the gate they were loading. Another 10 mins and we were getting seated on the flight.
The pilot informed us the ash-cloud was safely to the north of the UK and our arrival time was 30 mins earlier than scheduled. We relaxed at last, having spent an uncertain few hours wondering if we would end up in London or Birmingham, but now we knew all was well.
The time passed quickly for me - a movie, an hour and half's kip, some sudoku and the never-ending supply of food and drink by the cabin staff soon made the journey pass. Thats it then, back to driving on the left and some time ahead to sort out the photos and reflect on a great tour of California.
A big Thank You to Alan and Chris Fair who organised the trip and booked the hotels and added the fine detail to Andy Hamiltons route which was the basis for everything. Again Andy for dealing with Eaglerider, booking the bikes and phoning around to find out if the ash-cloud was going to affect the home flight.
Also Steve (Chris' brother) for driving the backup wagon and keeping the tail-end-charlie rider in view.
Hope you enjoyed reading about it.

Day 12 LA

Seems to be a problem uploading to blogger from the hotel last 2 nights though one of the drafts did get saved, so having to do these from home. Will update Day 11 as soon as poss.

Spent the day in Downtown LA, visiting the MOCA, Museum of Contemporary Art, and the Wells Fargo museum nearby. How does a Scotsman get downtown ? Ans, get a free shuttle bus to the airport from the hotel, then get a blue minicoach downtown for only $15.
Got to the MOCA at 1030 only to discover it opens at 1100. No problem, time for an iced tea (i'm converted) at the adjacent water feature rest area. The photo shows some of the water jets, top left, which spout up in various combinations giving interesting shapes which dissolve in front of your eyes, leaving the water to cascade down the steps. There is a small semi-circular terraced stage area for performers to the right, with lights and loudspeakers suspended above so there must be some interesting concerts here. (click on pic to enlarge)

The MOCA has two areas, permanent collection and guest collection. Some interesting early modern stuff from 1947 and 50's, and an Andy Warhol painting. There were several school parties (looked like P7) getting guided tours so couldn't help earwigging in to the guides explanations of the exhibits, this filled in a few questions I had. One interesting piece was in a linking corridor. Looking up, there was green and red string zigzagging between the walls, mixing through itself. On the walls there was yellow, string.
What is it? Ans, a burgers view of the world.
There was an interesting set of black and white photo's from the 50's and 60's (sorry can't remember the photographer) probably about 30 of them, with unusual shots of famous people like Marylin Monroe, JFK and some musicians and singers. I liked them. The photo below shows one of the pyramid shaped roof lights for the MOCA (similar to the Louvre idea) contrasting with the adjacent high rise buildings. The brown one on the right is the Wells Frago building.

Guest stuff was thought provoking, can't say I got it all. One was a set of 3 different audio-visual items. The first used a single projector, while the second and third used 3 projectors onto 3 walls of a room. You had to pick your viewing location to see all at once. It was clever how the display 'filled the room', the sound helps here, and it felt like you were there. A kind of 3D I suppose.

Wells Fargo - excellent display and information. Pity the receptionist didn't tell me there was an audio tour guide. There was an audio-visual though which was good. An old Stage was there in all its glory, fascinating to think that it could take 9, yes 9 ata squeeze inside, and then another 9 on the roof, luggage permitting. They cost $625 to make, using only the best materials such as hickory, to provide a reliable machine. The carpenters had to do a 6 year apprenticeship which covered all aspects of the woodwork. Blacksmiths made the iron wheel rims and clamps and brackets for the suspension.
The first Express ran from St Louis in 1858, going to LA and San Francisco in 24 days. This was a huge improvement on the shipping routes for mail which took months. Some stats - approx 2300 miles, change the horse teams every 12miles, meal and comfort stops every 45 miles, average speed 5 miles an hour. The charge for a package was $25. The drivers were legends, some good stories of their bravery and endurance. There was even a woman driver who dressed as a man so she could get the job. One of the main jobs was taking the 49ers gold from the mining camps to the city banks. The miners couldn't leave their stake for fear of a someone taking it over. Quite a thought for a miner to entrust his hard earned dust to a Stage driver and guard. The strongbox was under the drivers seat and was not easy to force open.

Eight of us are returning home tomorrow so its the last meal tonight for the group. We went to a mexican restaurant next door to our Best Western Suites hotel in Inglewood,LA. The meal was excellent and very good value, huge portions as usual and we were given a room to ourselves so we could all sit at the one table. Andy Hamilton had got Candy's photo's loaded onto his new I-Pad so while we waited for coffee the photo's of our 2 weeks flicked over the screen and reminded us of the places and people we had met. I think Candy said she had taken over 2000 pics plus videos so that is going to take a bit a sorting.

I hadn't heard the news about the volcanic ash cloud until tonight so that was a shock to hear it had erupted again. Will we get back tomorrow or not, or possibly diverted, we'll have to wait and see.

Day11 Sanata Barbara to LA

Slept well after yesterdays long ride, though still woke up at 0600. Went out for a walk along the front to get some exercise and if possible find an ATM. Not too many folk about but somebody was working their metal detector along the sand at the edge of the sidewalk. Otherwise only the occasional car and the gaggle of blue herons making a noise in the trees. The two ATM's were out of order but on returning to the hotel I got directions from Pat to another one.
Pat, Candy and Andy were heading down the rest of Highway 1 to SanDiego and I was joining them for some of it. We set off after 0900 and went at a leisurely speed taking in the views. The route is shared with Highway 101 which is Freeway most of the time, so some faster sections were inevitable.
On sunday mornings the verge between the beach and the road becomes a temporary boot sale area. There were a lot of local artists selling their paintings, pottery and jewellery.

The coastline is rugged just north of SB but now it changes. Sadly there are some parts being reclaimed by the sea along with peoples houses as this picture shows. It is less rocky now with small hills and of course a lot more housing. We soon come down to Malibu and take a turn off to go check out some of the houses on the beach. Well you know we can only see the back door of some of them, while you can't get to the front 'cause that is their own beach it seems. Ah well, might have been nice and idyllic in the 50's and 60's but its doesn't do it for me. There are fine houses up the cliff though, with their decks well away from the traffic and possible rising sea levels.

Another few miles and we stop at the beach that we can get on; no cafe though, seems its too cold and season is not really started yet. Thankfully the restrooms are open. H1 here runs parallel to the Interstate but the kerb nearest the beach has been comandeered by RV's. They are in all sizes from the large to the XXLarge articulated type with scooters on the back and expanding sides.

There are lots of cyclists out, mostly on racers, but also a few recreational riders with kids on tandem extensions. Also out are the bikers, lots of them and soon we pass a diner on the other side with easily 50 bikes parked outside. Obviously a popular cafe for those on 2 wheels.

We continue and eventually get to Redondo where lunch calls. We stop near a pier and get a mexican at the beach end. I get a fish plate which has 5 pieces of fish, like large fish fingers shape, with fries, what else, and an orange juice. Its getting hotter now and Andy realises he is getting sunburn on his arms. A purchase of 'Ice' aftersun is made and applied to the painful areas. Poor Andy suffered here but the Ice did the trick.

This is as far as i go on Highway 1. I have to hand the bike back as I am going to have a day out in LA. Pat and Andy and Candy are continuing to San Diego down I5 to do as much of the west coast route as possible. Speaking later they tell me they accidentally got onto a toll road which was deserted but was the best road surface encountered. It'll probably last for ever as its so seldom used.

The GPS gets me back to Eaglerider bike hire, topping up the fuel on the way. I unload my gear and wait for the bike to be checked over. NND -no new damage- is added to the paperwork. I get a clean bill and thankfully no extra charges. The bike has been good and I have had a brilliant 2 weeks touring California. Can't wait for the next one though it'll probably be 2 years yet, we'll see. Whats that ? What route? , well it has be Route 66 doesn't it. Ride on.

Day 10 Monterey to Santa Barbera

This was to be our longest day in the saddle, 335 miles. Sadly , as mentioned earlier, Highway 1 was closed by a landslide some 4 weeks before our trip began. It was still not opened so there were options - a)go as far as the blockage, 64 miles south of Carmel, and then head east over the hills via the Nacimiento Valley to H101, then south and west to get to H1 again 40 miles further south. (this detour is about 100 miles)
b) take H101 direct to S. Barbera
c) do as much of H1 as poss and use H101 to link the ends.

4 of us did a) while the rest did b) I think. (haven't seen them yet to confirm as i write)
What can I say. The run from Fort Bragg to SF was a good taster of what was to come on this leg. The Big Sur as it is known is a fantastic drive and the views and scenery are outstanding. It is an amazing variety of changing landscapes. It has everything, tall pines, deciduous woods, desert hills, seascapes and a ribbon of road joining them up and linking settlements together. The variety of housing too is a constant source of interest, ranging from modern houses to traditional ranch style bungalows hiding in the trees to odd shaped pent roofed items sheltering in the lee of huge boulders, or not, when they are seemingly perched on the brink of oblivion , right on the edge of a precipice. The views from them must be something else.

We rode to the 'Road Closed' sign, this was 60 miles south of Carmel. On the way we had a coffee stop at a super cafe come art shop. They specialised in glass art from all over the state. The building was unusual too, a round wooden affair (imagine a 'wall of death', but 30ft diameter) with large circular windows 3ft diameter. The deck was on the first floor roof - great views to the sea.

One the laybys we stopped at had some friendly locals who came out looking for food.








Next came the up and over to Nacimiento valley. This is a steep road, very twisty, and not too wide. Something like the Bealach na Ba road to Applecross, but twice the height. Stunning. The view back down to H1 and the bridge crossing the creek was superb. The curving horizon of the Pacific accentuating the wildness of the area. The drop down the other side was through woods hugging the road and with the sun sparkling through the foliage was a magical ride. We stopped to remove a layer as the temp increased. On the coast it was a cool 60F while now it was 72F and rising. It peaked at 81F. The creek here looked pretty narrow and shallow yet we had just passed a guy with a rod, wearing waders up to his chest. Maybe there was a lake other side of the trees.

The road soon straightens out, goes through an army training area and then heads down the valley where it eventually comes to our lunch spot, the Lockwood Diner at the junction with the G14 which we take next. This is a friendly foodstop with interesting memorabilia pinned to the ceilings. We meet Tim who is with 2 other bikers on their Harleys, going from Sacramento to Santa Barbara for the weekend. They invite us to The Tequila Bar in downtown SB if we get the time, thanks guys.

The G14 is a good flowing road with nice curves for a motorcycle. We scoot along and soon get to the coast at Cambria. We stop here for a coffee and meet a guy with an old 1100 Gold Wing. He says he has been working on it as it was neglected and he has done a lot to it. When he takes off we see he wasn't joking about it 'still being a bit rough'. It would hardly take the skin off a rice pudding, it was so under powered it spluttered off choking in its own exhaust (and us too).


128 miles to go so back to the bikes, refuel in the gas station and rejoin Highway 1 southbound this time. The weather of course changes with the scenery and soon the temperature drops and the wind gets up. It is a bit blowy as we near Santa Barbara and just as we get parallel with the coast a point is reached where the wind funnels down and blows us about a bit, well me for sure while the gold wings are less affected. A couple of miles later we can get back up to 65mph and resume checking out the scenery as we go. The outskirts of SB are very pleasant. Big houses, ranch style, and plenty land. The view across the bay is nice although some oilrigs kinda spoil it. I try not to take them in my view.

We are soon at the hotel,Mr Garmin gets it right, and we park up and go and check in. Whats next? Yep, food. Its hungry work all this riding.

Day 9 San Francisco to Monterey

0900 start with fuel, sorry gas, first on the agenda. The nearest station had no 89 or 91 octane so we went to one on the way to the bridge vista point where we had a group photo. The weather was cooler today but the sun was out.

The route followed the coast down to Santa Cruz on Highway 1 and provided lovely views out over the Pacific. The scenery changes every 20 miles, going from rocky shoreline to sandy beach and back again while the plants go from deciduous to pine trees to desert shrubs to sand.

Lunch was in a roadhouse restaurant which was busy, but they managed to fit us in. 6 of the group went on ahead to the sea-life centre to do a tour there while the rest of us went to a Steam Locomotion park. Sadly we were too early in the season and it was not fully open. We had a wander around and looked at the various facilities which were housed in re-cycled cabooses, and the station which thankfully had some seating in the shade of the sun to cool off.

Off again the 5 bikes headed for Monterey and the plan to do an advertised 17 mile drive round the peninsula before tea. We stop to take some pics and a woman comes along the beach path with her dog and exits onto the sidewalk beside us. The dog strains over to say hello to us and I bend down and give it the 'well you're a happy dog aren't you'. He wags his tail and is delighted to have a new friend. I make a big fuss of him and his owner says "well thats a scottish accent where are you from?" We meet Mrs Weir and have blether.
Sadly we only managed 5 miles when the route entered a state Park with a security person at the gatehouse. Seems the 'Drive' is for cars only, bikes not allowed. hmm.
Back to the hotel and get set for dinner.

Up the road not 10 mins walk was a large shopping centre with some eating places. Easiest to get to were a chinese and a pizza place. Somewhere was a grill we had been told was good, so off we set to find it. Its friday, its 8pm and its busy with folk, what are the chances of getting seats for 8? Not much you'd think but fortunately we were lucky. They could take us and what a meal. Angus steaks, all round I think, and they were delicious. Lalla's is the place if you get there.

Too late and too tired to do a blog and also with an earlier start next day, I head for bed. Another great day on Highway 1.

Day 8 San Francisco

0930 muster for Alcatraz so 0730 its a walk out for breakfast. There's an IHOP just round the corner which is perfect. Fuelled and ready we head for pier 33 for the ferry. Just as well we(Alan) have booked ahead online as the billboard says next available booking is friday. Group photo taken, we embark and alcatraz is now on the bow.
The intro video in the former stores area is very informative and the cell block audio tour guide is very well done with a fine balance between hard facts, sound effects and former staff voices. All in all it was impressive.
Back ashore 2hrs+ later and lunch is first. Something quick at the entrance to pier 39, then its off to get up the Coit Tower which provides superb views of the city and bay.
We decide to do the cable car museum and take one for a ride to get there. Technically its very interesting and plenty to read and see how it all works.

Finally a ride down the hill which is exciting (will the brakes work with all these folk onboard? -they do) and a looksee at how they spin the car round on the turntable at the bottom. Tourists are queueing for a ride up the hill and a trio are playing some jazz funk keeping them amused and hopefully getting a few bucks for their effort. (they are good)
Tonights meal is a standard at Dennys, just what is required. Trying for an early night as we are required for "props turning at 9". Another great day on our trip.

Day 7 Fort Bragg to San Francisco

Sunshine split the skys from the start, what a difference. At breakfast the routes for the gps were updated and we were more or less ready to go at 0900. First stop the gas station and today it was only $15 to top up. Its only $4.30 or so a gallon (6pts) which works out to £4 in uk.
I was last to leave the station behind Alan and Chris. We stopped at the red light waiting to turn left. The green lit and alan engaged gear and just as he moved a car shot through the red across his bow. That was close. Just shows you have to keep your wits about you. Steve the minibus driver says he always counts to 3 before moving off at lights, even if folk honk you for being slow.
That done we set off down highway 1, the scenery was fantastic. The rocky western coast looking magical with waves crashing over semi-submerged reefs. The road too was wonderful, a twisting turning ribbon hugging the clifftops. We passed through lovely small villages perched on cliff tops, Elk being one which the residents had outstanding views over the ocean. At on place the sea has reclaimed some land and houses are mid tumble into the sea. Shame.
One car in a hurry overtook Alan and I on a solid yellow, thats number 2 of the day.
Further on a 'kodak' moment was taken at a Vista point. There are large forests here and buzzards were soaring effortlessly on the onshore breeze coming up the cliffs.

1130 and its coffee time and a lovely hotel, Alexanders, where we have an early lunch instead. Not far south from here there is an option on the route - H1 or H101. Andy Hamilton and I choose H1, the rest go the straighter road.

Well H1 is a beauty from here to SF. A bikers dream, this is biking heaven. Halfway to the Golden Gate Andy and partner Candy, and I stop at a small place for a caffeine topup. Across the road is a barbers and andy decides to get his haircut. I go to find a bank and on returning to the barbers spot the old cash register. Don the barber says thats just old junk, go see the one in the western bar next door. Wow, two very old machines are still in place behind the bar, and as for the bar, straight out of 1890's or so.
We haven't seen too many other bikers on these roads. The weekends is when they all come out but today there have been 3 small groups on H1. Also not many are sport bikes, usually bigger Harleys but here is a Ducati, first I've seen.
After the bank I go to another hardware store. Not as good as the one in Napa but similar in size and an excellent stock of tools - handyman heaven;-)
We continue down H1 passing a couple of rundown restaurants that are decaying at the beachside. These must have been lovely places in their time.
Next we are twisting and turning around the shoreline. Maybe two miles later the road gains height and we are leaving the sea for now. A set of roadworks delays things but we get a wave from 4 bikes heading north.

Off again and its the freeway on-ramp next, but the traffic is soon slowing. We trickle through a tunnel and its stationary just at the exit. 4 into 2 is why but soon its over the bridge and the impressive skyline ahead. Slight confusion with the gps but we do get to the bridge vista point for some photos and then back onto the 101 into the city centre.
Very busy but the traffic is flowing and in no time we are at the hotel.

The hotel has its own underground parking which is very handy. Checkin and then quick change and head to pier 39 at fishermans wharf.

We go to Neptunes and arguably get the best table with a view of the bridge and the sun going down behind it - what and end to a perfect day.

G'night y'all.

Day 6 Napa to Fort Bragg

A bit of a wet ride today and not helped by the group getting split in traffic and the 2nd half going the wrong way for a few miles. I was tail-end but both mine and georges gps' showed we were on track but mr garmin had picked a different route from the desired one.
No matter we met up some 50 mins later at the Old Faithful geyser. It is fairly regular at about 4 mins today, tho the spout was varying between 10' to 25'. Interesting to read all the info about it and how they tried to use it as an indicator of seismic activity.
There is no cafe here as such here so we headed back to the main road where we thought there was one. Nope, it wasn't one but the gps said there was one 0.2 miles to the right. Wrong again but strangely, as these things happen, it worked out for the best cause we got to go to Jimtown Store. A strange combo of deli cum souvenier shop serving excellent home made food.

The route was interesting today despite the rain. We started in the Napa valley then on to Alexander valley and finally to Anderson valley. These are all extensive wine growing areas with big houses surrounded by acres of vines. The names of many of the wines are on display on the gates or signposts and it was a shock to see one in particular - Summers Winery. Also some of the road names - Zinfandel Lane. This is my kind of country !

The valleys were getting narrower the further north we went and the low rolling hills each side getting closer in view. The trees were changing too, a lot more pines and very much less deciduous. After Anderson there was a few miles of twisty road gliding downhill underneath a canopy of pine branches, the tall redwoods easily about the 100' mark, lining the edges of the road. The smell of the pine was strong in the damp conditions. Finally the twisties ended and we joined onto Highway 1 for the last 18 miles to Fort Bragg.

The rain had stopped now and a patch of blue sky appeared out over the pacific, would the sun come out? Not sure but it did brighten and it was a pleasant spin for those last miles. Hopefully tomorrow the showers will weaken and pass as forecast, as we are crossing the Golden Gate bridge.

Day 5 Napa

Well the reports of the snow at Tahoe showed we made a good call for coming NW. Seems they had 4" snow last night and only 4x4 with chains were allowed on the road. If we had got there we would not be getting out easily.
Today became a rest day and an exploration of Napa. The Hamiltons went to a winery and did the full tour. The rest of us walked round the centre of Napa and looking for some shopping therapy. There was not too much of this about to be honest, there were quite a few shop units shut down. However Pat and myself found a huge antique shop, an amazing hardware store and a Walmarts to keep amused.
The hardware shop has everything a handyman could want, I am not joking. They were quiet and the staff obviously bored and keen to help, but on hearing our accents they took us on a tour of the shop. We even got backshop to be proudly shown an amzing range of stainless steel bolts, washers, nuts etc. They even have a small museum collection of very old tools fixed to the walls and they were being guarded by a stuffed wolf and cougar in suitable poses with jaws open. I didn't have my camera or phone with me but tomorrow i am hoping to nip back and get a couple of pics before we leave.
The exercise was much needed and of course walking round you see things like this lovely house for sale, the wine train coming back in over the crossing and more of these pickups.





























Tomorrow the new plan is to head NW to Fort Bragg and o/night there, taking in the Old Faithful Geyser of CA (one of only 3 in the world).

Then we'll run down Highway 1 to SF making up for not doing the next section south of SF. This will put us back on plan A in SF.
The forecast is for showers tomorrow and improving towards the weekend. It has been unseasonally wet and cold today, more like january weather the locals are telling us.

Day 4 Mariposa to Napa

Further checking of the weather forecast showed more rain and winds coming in to the region so we opted to head for Napa and reappraise the situation. There are lots of routes north of SF worth exploring and a better chance of getting andy's bike changed.

We set off down CA 140 with the sun trying to come out. Starting altitude was 850m and we had to go up first then over the top and down to get onto I5. There were many orchards growing almonds and prunes and a few acres of cereal both sides of 140. Too soon we were on I5 and sweeping round south, then west and NW to Napa. Most of my attention was on the traffic and a looming black cloud which was unloading rain to the west. Looked like we might get past its line of travel but a comfort and food break was required. Maybe just as well for the heavens opened while we were eating so quite possibly a lucky break.

By the time we were ready to go the sun was out and the ground was drying. The temp was a cool 48F but rising now. By Napa it was 60F and sun shining. We were soon off the Interstate and heading over an exposed plain with windmills to our left powering round in the breeze.

We are now at the southern end of the Napa valley and there are tree covered hills to the west and north giving a scottish feel to it. Andy's news is to get his bike swopped in SF on tuesday.

Next item is more food so its a taxi downtown shortly.

Day 4

Change of plan due to weather. Tahoe is out now due to snow. Just seen cars coming down from yosemite with 2" snow on roof - think of the campers up there!

Napa is next and a rethink for day after. Andy hamiltons bike has a problem so poss change it at Sacramento.

Day 3 Clovis to Mariposa via Yosemite

A definite change to the weather today, cooler and a grey haze, more like UK. 9am was the proposed start but was delayed to 10 for some essential shopping by some. After fuelling up we were straight onto highway 168. A good run for 20 miles on duel carriageway (70mph) then turn off onto country roads, 55mph. We were soon descending which felt strange as I didn't think we were at any kind of height at clovis. However, down we went, a very twisty road and views appearing over to the other side of the canyon, and then a brief glimpse of a river at least 800 ft below. The scale of things is difficult to grasp as the trees are easily 100 ft tall and this affects your ability to judge heights.

We stop at a small town - North Fork - and get a coffee. A local guy on a scooter (suzuki burgman) stops to chat and I find out about this place. It was a logging own until the goverment nationalise it. Jobs go and now the town is struggling. Across the road from the cafe is the Buckhorn Bar and Restaurant. It is very old and is the place where everyone used to meet for music and dances and of course beer. The ceiling used to be covered with all types of guns. Now there are only 2. There is a stuffed grizzly in the corner and lots of old photos on the walls. It is strangely busy as there is an Alaskan dogsled org having a 50th anniversary meet here in honour one of the towns residents who won the trophy 4 years in a row, so they have come here in honour of his skill.

Soon we were gaining height again and hey its gettin cold - check the height on the gps - we are back to 5000 ft again and still going up. Soon its 7000' and views are appearing on the left of clean smooth rock. We start to descend, down to 4000' , a lovely twisty road but not much to see as the view is hidden by the trees. We turn right and a sign says Yosemite 35 miles. Round a corner and whoaya what a view. There is a sight of The big Dome and El Capitain i think about 10 miles away with a gorge to my left that disappears, no sign of the river at the bottom. The road twists and turns and still we descend, laybys (turnout) appear and photo opportunities are taken. We pay at the entrnce to the Park and soon it is the first viewpoint - Tunnel View. A large car park just after a 200m tunnel you drive through - don't forget to take off your sunglasses!

Still we descend until we reach the first attraction, the bridal veil, a waterfall. It is quite spectacular, falling perhaps 1500', not sure but more pics. On again and not 300m there is another spectacular view point but we must go on. The parking places are filled with camper vans and cars.

To be honest the first 2 hours is a blur now and over-ridden by the sights of yosemite. We park up at the main visitor area and it is busy. It is saturday after all. It is now 3pm.
The toilets are a temporary affair. It seems ther was a huge flood which washed the old blocks away. They say the water was 5' deep across the car park here. That is scary.

5pm and we are off, 44 miles to go. However everyone else is leaving too, so its 30mph for the next hour as we snake down the canyon and exit following the rivers path.The only word to describe it is awesome.

Another 150 mile day but the first where i have not been overheating.
Mariposa is a busy place tonight, all food joints busy , the chinese is the only place we can get in. It was fine but not the recommended eatery.

Tomorrow on to Lake Tahoe.

Day 2 Delano to Clovis.

Woke up early but had slept well. 0630, shower dress and then out to sort the power feed for the GPS. This was one of the things we thought was arranged, however we got the job done ourselves. Mine was straightforward, Pat got his done but willie had a bad connection - solder joint broken. Soon fixed enough to get him by.
Breakfast next then try and post my blog - nope, blogger site is down so 2 posts 2nite.

Fuel up next - pay first, then fill up, then go back to get change.
We are off, the 8 bikes together and the support bus at the rear. We set off up Highway 68 i think, for 30 miles or so then turn off onto a single carriageway. This is farming country big style, tho suddenly we pass an old airfield, part of it still being used for a club, but an old phantom and another plane i can't recall its name standing solemnly reminding us of what used to fly here.

We are now cruising at 55mph down miles of orange groves, big rigs are going the other way loaded up with them, trailers too, and there is a waft of fresh orange in the air for a few seconds as we pass. The groves are well maintained and orderly, machines are busy round the sides digging holes etc. There are huge pickups around many with raised suspension and large tyres - similar to those monster trucks at displays. Here they are for real.

Occasionally fields of horses and foals, then some cattle, its all here. Fairly straight roads, a few bends, but the foothils are getting closer. Then round a corner and something high up catches my eye - is that snow ? Out of the haze the high ridges of the southern sierra nevada break through with rugged skyline and large snowfields, then a burst of blue sky hardens up the skyline making the white stand out, stunning.

We stop for a drink then continue to the sequoia park. Ah, major works in the park, the road is only open at certain times. We decide to get lunch at 3 Rivers, just 2 miles down the road. WE ask if they can serve us in 50 mins as we have to get back for a 2pm slot. They can, and they do. Excellent service and food and we are on a stunning covered veranda next to a river thundering down below us. Huge boulders deflect the persistent water and yet the surrounding vegetation is dry and ground seems arid, desert like.

We get up to the works and after a short wait the road is opened and we get through. At this point we have been getting hot again and as we gain height, the views are amazing; we are now about 4000 feet up and looks like another 1000 to go. The temp starts to drop and still we climb, up and up, when will it level out - at about 7400 feet thats when. The strange thing is the trees are getting taller and taller as we get higher and higher. Amazingly, we get to General Sherman and it is 187 feet tall, weighs an estimated 1700 tons and it lives at over 7000 feet.

We get a shower of rain, the temp plummets and in the space of 5 mins we have gone from 60F to 46F. Thunder cracks overhaed and a flash or two of lightning, thought some of the trees looked like they had taken a strike down the trunk. There is an aroma of redwood in the air, it is stunning to see these old trees, some are over 4000 years old they reckon.

Getting cold now so time to get down. We continue on the road, going down the NW side. What a great twisty windy road, however speed limits are displayed warning of blind bends ahead and occasional small rocks fallen to the side of the road. The altitude on the gps goes from 2280 to 1960 then starts going back up, then down, up, down. After some 10 miles we are still at 7000 feet; and getting cooler. We stop at a view point and meet 3 bikers from Brazil, they are surprised to see the scottish flags flying from the aerials.

On again and at last the roads descends to the valley, and the air temp climbs up to 76F. The bends get longer and faster and soon we are carving them at 55mph, great road. Another 30 mins and another coffee break. 45 miles to go. We arrive in Clovis at 1830, 181 miles done, thirsty and happy.

More food after a shower and change and catching up on the days sights.

Day 1 LA to Delano (Bakersfield)

The bike sorting out took longer than expected and some things were not as planned. However the first group set off at1230 to do the start of Route 66 and Hollywood, i'm in that group. The others were doing an easy straight run up the highway to our next hotel.
All went well though heavy traffic at Santa Monica meant time was lost, so lunch was had on the end of the pier. Photos taken at the R66 sign and then set of for Beverly Hills.

More queues on the boulevards, more time lost. Fought our way to Hollywood then up the hill to the sign. The obligatory photo shots then on to I5 and Delano for our overnight. The heat built up and just before I5 we stopped for drinks and cooling down. Temp of 79F and we're melting in our gear.

Not only that it is now 1830 and we have only done 45 miles ! 125 still to go. With the sun slowly sinking in the west we had an amazing ride over the hills on I5, very busy with big rigs haulin loads up a 16% gradient in the crawl lane. We flew by, then down the north side, other rigs burning brakes and rubber trying to slow down, the smells mixing with the dry grass pollen blowing around, very atmospheric. The road surface pretty poor in places where steel rims have gouged rail-lines into the surface.

Looking for a cooling breeze we were disaappointed, it just got hotter, 82 and its 2030. The sun is now set and the gloom gathering. We are at the foot of the hill and I5 stretches away in a straight line as far as you can see. How wide is this plain? Don't know but after 45 mins of riding it is still there in front of us stretching to the horizon. We pulled over for a breather, still 50 miles to go. 2200 we pulled in to the car park, tired hungry and very thirsty but what a great ride.

A quick shower and then food at a Dennys , and lots of water and juice.
Tomorrow its the Sequoia national park.

We're Here!

Finally touched down at 3.15am uk time, after a fairly smooth journey. No flight delays but big queues at Newark for security which is understandable. This left no time for food before LA flight but the on-board menu was ok.

This flight was 5 hours and just gave an idea of how big this land is with some spectacular views of the terrain near Vegas. The supershuttle taxi pickup was as arranged and after a speedy run to west hollywood we were delivered to the Jolly Roger hotel.
Alas the walk to the beach was further than expected and so food and a drink took the priority.

Its now 10pm (6am uk) and i'm off for a kip though while tired, strangely still feel wide awake.

0900 good news got to the beach and dipped the toes this morning. Sun is out and it is hot.
Here we go.

Final Countdown

Having a final browse at internety things californiawise. Ooo err, there is snow in them pictures of lake Tahoe, think i'll throw in an extra layer. It is 4,000' + of course so no surprise. The webcam at mount pluto is interesting and a complete contrast to the one at the palisades on the coast. Yes you really can go skiing in the morning and surfing in the pm.
There is one of the Old Faithfuls in CA, not too far north of SF so we may stop by for an icecream or candy etc.
Received email from andy who is arranging the bikes, they are ready and staff standing by to help us wire them up ! sounds good. I've taken all the bits and wiring so hope to get a standard install which keeps the gps charged.
So cheery for now and next bulletin from CA.

California Dreaming

I must be getting excited about the trip as I have not slept well last 2 nights, dreams about missing flights and sleeping in, hopefully thats where they'll stay.

Spent today packing, then removing a couple of items and repacking. Yep I have the list ticked off, and hiring the same bike I own means I know it all fits in the 2 panniers.

Cleaned the boots and reproofed the appropriate bits of the suit where the rain, if any, runs down and gathers - yes down there. Otherwise its sorting out a book for the flights - Michael Connoly, The last Coyote (was he not on telly with Yosemite Sam?) - pen for the crossword and buds for the in-flight movie; check; and oh yes the gold panning tools and shovel, hell there's so much gold its just lyin'around an' you can just pick it up, they do say.

Nearly all of us have GPS but its good to have a backup, so i've been checking out my map and hey whats that there, the Chocolate Mountains, no kiddin'. Sadly too far south for our trip but they are just south of the Joshua Tree national park. Amazing.

Many of the names are so familiar having been used in songs that we've grown up with, we have been unwittingly steeped in americana for years without realising it. To name a few: Ventura Highway, San Jose, San Bernadino, Reno. So its going to be fun seeing some of these places.

Found a good site for weather info - wunderground.com - its got the lot, even a flu activity monitor !! so it says it is a hazy 20 in LA and cooler 16 in SF tho getting sunny on wed and thu. Think i can cope with that.

The Route

OK requests for the route, here it is:-
thu 12, LA, collect bikes, ride to Delano, 150 miles NE LA. (Bakersfield area)
fri 13th, Delano to Clovis, 180 miles, via Sequoia national park.(Oldest tree)
sat14th, ride to Mariposa via yosemite national park. 70 miles.
sun 15th, to Lake Tahoe via(hopefully) Tioga Pass. 210 miles.
mon16th, still at Lake Tahoe close to Arizona border. Poss tour to Reno or Carson city.
tue 17th, ride to Napa, the wine area! 190miles.
wed 18th, ride to S.F. Only 50 miles by crow, we are doing 205 via redwoods and north roads.
thu 19th, S.F. 2nd night at Tuscan Inn, Fishermans wharf. Alcatraz and pier 39 and cable cars.
fri 20th, Highway 1, 138 miles exploring PCH1. Ride to Monterey.
sat21st, ride down the Big Sur to Santa barabera, 250 miles if the landslip is cleared.Fingers crossed everyone.
sun22nd, only 100 miles from LA now, Malibu beach to dip toes, downtown Burbank and the Hollywood sign.
mon 23rd, take bikes back first thing, day in LA.
tue 24th, early start, shuttle at 0800, flight 1025, Newark 1850 local.
wed24th, Eh 0745 and home.
thu 25th, where did 2 weeks go.

3 Days to go.

Its sunday and we leave wed am from edinburgh airport. Got most of my gear sorted and ready for final packing. This has been the main decision point, what to take and what to leave. Intending to wear my usual kit but have heard it can be warm, just need to keep hydrated.

Seems they have had a good fall of snow this year and the passes north of yosemite are unlikely to be cleared before mid may, possibly end of may. This is a shame as the roads look great for biking on the maps.
The other 'bad' news was there has been a landslide on the Big Sur some 60 miles south of 'Cisco and could take 2 weeks to clear. This is about when we should get there so will be touch and go but nothing we can do about it.

The only decision still to make is for day1. There is a choice of routes to start the tour. Either do the first 50 miles or so of Route 66 from Santa Monica or head straight for Bakersfield area on the freeway - 5 lanes wide. We are doing the west hollywood at the end so there is no loss its just that some are going down to San Diego on the last day to do as much of PCH1 as possible. So they are taking in the Hollywood sign and Santa Monica Pier at the start. Guess I'll see how wide awake I feel on day1 and whether its a sensible decision to go for R66 or just take the easy route.