Homeward Bound

Volcanic ash has caused chaos to flights and travellers across northern UK and Europe. What option to take if we get the choice. The check-in helpdesk were very helpful and the supervisor went off to see what the latest news was. The departure board still showed the LA - Newark/Glasgow flight as going ahead so it looked hopeful. Yep all ok. Seems the ash-cloud was not moving south and that Edinburgh and Glasgow should be fine.
The incoming flight was delayed from Ireland by 20 mins, but by the time we got boarded it was 1hr and 20 mins late. This was eating into the transfer time for us to get to our UK gate at Newark so we would not be hanging around much. We disembarked at gate C95 and had to get to C134, hmm not too far then ? Er well it was possibly about 15 mins smart walking, add a restroom stop and by the time we got to the gate they were loading. Another 10 mins and we were getting seated on the flight.
The pilot informed us the ash-cloud was safely to the north of the UK and our arrival time was 30 mins earlier than scheduled. We relaxed at last, having spent an uncertain few hours wondering if we would end up in London or Birmingham, but now we knew all was well.
The time passed quickly for me - a movie, an hour and half's kip, some sudoku and the never-ending supply of food and drink by the cabin staff soon made the journey pass. Thats it then, back to driving on the left and some time ahead to sort out the photos and reflect on a great tour of California.
A big Thank You to Alan and Chris Fair who organised the trip and booked the hotels and added the fine detail to Andy Hamiltons route which was the basis for everything. Again Andy for dealing with Eaglerider, booking the bikes and phoning around to find out if the ash-cloud was going to affect the home flight.
Also Steve (Chris' brother) for driving the backup wagon and keeping the tail-end-charlie rider in view.
Hope you enjoyed reading about it.

Day 12 LA

Seems to be a problem uploading to blogger from the hotel last 2 nights though one of the drafts did get saved, so having to do these from home. Will update Day 11 as soon as poss.

Spent the day in Downtown LA, visiting the MOCA, Museum of Contemporary Art, and the Wells Fargo museum nearby. How does a Scotsman get downtown ? Ans, get a free shuttle bus to the airport from the hotel, then get a blue minicoach downtown for only $15.
Got to the MOCA at 1030 only to discover it opens at 1100. No problem, time for an iced tea (i'm converted) at the adjacent water feature rest area. The photo shows some of the water jets, top left, which spout up in various combinations giving interesting shapes which dissolve in front of your eyes, leaving the water to cascade down the steps. There is a small semi-circular terraced stage area for performers to the right, with lights and loudspeakers suspended above so there must be some interesting concerts here. (click on pic to enlarge)

The MOCA has two areas, permanent collection and guest collection. Some interesting early modern stuff from 1947 and 50's, and an Andy Warhol painting. There were several school parties (looked like P7) getting guided tours so couldn't help earwigging in to the guides explanations of the exhibits, this filled in a few questions I had. One interesting piece was in a linking corridor. Looking up, there was green and red string zigzagging between the walls, mixing through itself. On the walls there was yellow, string.
What is it? Ans, a burgers view of the world.
There was an interesting set of black and white photo's from the 50's and 60's (sorry can't remember the photographer) probably about 30 of them, with unusual shots of famous people like Marylin Monroe, JFK and some musicians and singers. I liked them. The photo below shows one of the pyramid shaped roof lights for the MOCA (similar to the Louvre idea) contrasting with the adjacent high rise buildings. The brown one on the right is the Wells Frago building.

Guest stuff was thought provoking, can't say I got it all. One was a set of 3 different audio-visual items. The first used a single projector, while the second and third used 3 projectors onto 3 walls of a room. You had to pick your viewing location to see all at once. It was clever how the display 'filled the room', the sound helps here, and it felt like you were there. A kind of 3D I suppose.

Wells Fargo - excellent display and information. Pity the receptionist didn't tell me there was an audio tour guide. There was an audio-visual though which was good. An old Stage was there in all its glory, fascinating to think that it could take 9, yes 9 ata squeeze inside, and then another 9 on the roof, luggage permitting. They cost $625 to make, using only the best materials such as hickory, to provide a reliable machine. The carpenters had to do a 6 year apprenticeship which covered all aspects of the woodwork. Blacksmiths made the iron wheel rims and clamps and brackets for the suspension.
The first Express ran from St Louis in 1858, going to LA and San Francisco in 24 days. This was a huge improvement on the shipping routes for mail which took months. Some stats - approx 2300 miles, change the horse teams every 12miles, meal and comfort stops every 45 miles, average speed 5 miles an hour. The charge for a package was $25. The drivers were legends, some good stories of their bravery and endurance. There was even a woman driver who dressed as a man so she could get the job. One of the main jobs was taking the 49ers gold from the mining camps to the city banks. The miners couldn't leave their stake for fear of a someone taking it over. Quite a thought for a miner to entrust his hard earned dust to a Stage driver and guard. The strongbox was under the drivers seat and was not easy to force open.

Eight of us are returning home tomorrow so its the last meal tonight for the group. We went to a mexican restaurant next door to our Best Western Suites hotel in Inglewood,LA. The meal was excellent and very good value, huge portions as usual and we were given a room to ourselves so we could all sit at the one table. Andy Hamilton had got Candy's photo's loaded onto his new I-Pad so while we waited for coffee the photo's of our 2 weeks flicked over the screen and reminded us of the places and people we had met. I think Candy said she had taken over 2000 pics plus videos so that is going to take a bit a sorting.

I hadn't heard the news about the volcanic ash cloud until tonight so that was a shock to hear it had erupted again. Will we get back tomorrow or not, or possibly diverted, we'll have to wait and see.

Day11 Sanata Barbara to LA

Slept well after yesterdays long ride, though still woke up at 0600. Went out for a walk along the front to get some exercise and if possible find an ATM. Not too many folk about but somebody was working their metal detector along the sand at the edge of the sidewalk. Otherwise only the occasional car and the gaggle of blue herons making a noise in the trees. The two ATM's were out of order but on returning to the hotel I got directions from Pat to another one.
Pat, Candy and Andy were heading down the rest of Highway 1 to SanDiego and I was joining them for some of it. We set off after 0900 and went at a leisurely speed taking in the views. The route is shared with Highway 101 which is Freeway most of the time, so some faster sections were inevitable.
On sunday mornings the verge between the beach and the road becomes a temporary boot sale area. There were a lot of local artists selling their paintings, pottery and jewellery.

The coastline is rugged just north of SB but now it changes. Sadly there are some parts being reclaimed by the sea along with peoples houses as this picture shows. It is less rocky now with small hills and of course a lot more housing. We soon come down to Malibu and take a turn off to go check out some of the houses on the beach. Well you know we can only see the back door of some of them, while you can't get to the front 'cause that is their own beach it seems. Ah well, might have been nice and idyllic in the 50's and 60's but its doesn't do it for me. There are fine houses up the cliff though, with their decks well away from the traffic and possible rising sea levels.

Another few miles and we stop at the beach that we can get on; no cafe though, seems its too cold and season is not really started yet. Thankfully the restrooms are open. H1 here runs parallel to the Interstate but the kerb nearest the beach has been comandeered by RV's. They are in all sizes from the large to the XXLarge articulated type with scooters on the back and expanding sides.

There are lots of cyclists out, mostly on racers, but also a few recreational riders with kids on tandem extensions. Also out are the bikers, lots of them and soon we pass a diner on the other side with easily 50 bikes parked outside. Obviously a popular cafe for those on 2 wheels.

We continue and eventually get to Redondo where lunch calls. We stop near a pier and get a mexican at the beach end. I get a fish plate which has 5 pieces of fish, like large fish fingers shape, with fries, what else, and an orange juice. Its getting hotter now and Andy realises he is getting sunburn on his arms. A purchase of 'Ice' aftersun is made and applied to the painful areas. Poor Andy suffered here but the Ice did the trick.

This is as far as i go on Highway 1. I have to hand the bike back as I am going to have a day out in LA. Pat and Andy and Candy are continuing to San Diego down I5 to do as much of the west coast route as possible. Speaking later they tell me they accidentally got onto a toll road which was deserted but was the best road surface encountered. It'll probably last for ever as its so seldom used.

The GPS gets me back to Eaglerider bike hire, topping up the fuel on the way. I unload my gear and wait for the bike to be checked over. NND -no new damage- is added to the paperwork. I get a clean bill and thankfully no extra charges. The bike has been good and I have had a brilliant 2 weeks touring California. Can't wait for the next one though it'll probably be 2 years yet, we'll see. Whats that ? What route? , well it has be Route 66 doesn't it. Ride on.

Day 10 Monterey to Santa Barbera

This was to be our longest day in the saddle, 335 miles. Sadly , as mentioned earlier, Highway 1 was closed by a landslide some 4 weeks before our trip began. It was still not opened so there were options - a)go as far as the blockage, 64 miles south of Carmel, and then head east over the hills via the Nacimiento Valley to H101, then south and west to get to H1 again 40 miles further south. (this detour is about 100 miles)
b) take H101 direct to S. Barbera
c) do as much of H1 as poss and use H101 to link the ends.

4 of us did a) while the rest did b) I think. (haven't seen them yet to confirm as i write)
What can I say. The run from Fort Bragg to SF was a good taster of what was to come on this leg. The Big Sur as it is known is a fantastic drive and the views and scenery are outstanding. It is an amazing variety of changing landscapes. It has everything, tall pines, deciduous woods, desert hills, seascapes and a ribbon of road joining them up and linking settlements together. The variety of housing too is a constant source of interest, ranging from modern houses to traditional ranch style bungalows hiding in the trees to odd shaped pent roofed items sheltering in the lee of huge boulders, or not, when they are seemingly perched on the brink of oblivion , right on the edge of a precipice. The views from them must be something else.

We rode to the 'Road Closed' sign, this was 60 miles south of Carmel. On the way we had a coffee stop at a super cafe come art shop. They specialised in glass art from all over the state. The building was unusual too, a round wooden affair (imagine a 'wall of death', but 30ft diameter) with large circular windows 3ft diameter. The deck was on the first floor roof - great views to the sea.

One the laybys we stopped at had some friendly locals who came out looking for food.








Next came the up and over to Nacimiento valley. This is a steep road, very twisty, and not too wide. Something like the Bealach na Ba road to Applecross, but twice the height. Stunning. The view back down to H1 and the bridge crossing the creek was superb. The curving horizon of the Pacific accentuating the wildness of the area. The drop down the other side was through woods hugging the road and with the sun sparkling through the foliage was a magical ride. We stopped to remove a layer as the temp increased. On the coast it was a cool 60F while now it was 72F and rising. It peaked at 81F. The creek here looked pretty narrow and shallow yet we had just passed a guy with a rod, wearing waders up to his chest. Maybe there was a lake other side of the trees.

The road soon straightens out, goes through an army training area and then heads down the valley where it eventually comes to our lunch spot, the Lockwood Diner at the junction with the G14 which we take next. This is a friendly foodstop with interesting memorabilia pinned to the ceilings. We meet Tim who is with 2 other bikers on their Harleys, going from Sacramento to Santa Barbara for the weekend. They invite us to The Tequila Bar in downtown SB if we get the time, thanks guys.

The G14 is a good flowing road with nice curves for a motorcycle. We scoot along and soon get to the coast at Cambria. We stop here for a coffee and meet a guy with an old 1100 Gold Wing. He says he has been working on it as it was neglected and he has done a lot to it. When he takes off we see he wasn't joking about it 'still being a bit rough'. It would hardly take the skin off a rice pudding, it was so under powered it spluttered off choking in its own exhaust (and us too).


128 miles to go so back to the bikes, refuel in the gas station and rejoin Highway 1 southbound this time. The weather of course changes with the scenery and soon the temperature drops and the wind gets up. It is a bit blowy as we near Santa Barbara and just as we get parallel with the coast a point is reached where the wind funnels down and blows us about a bit, well me for sure while the gold wings are less affected. A couple of miles later we can get back up to 65mph and resume checking out the scenery as we go. The outskirts of SB are very pleasant. Big houses, ranch style, and plenty land. The view across the bay is nice although some oilrigs kinda spoil it. I try not to take them in my view.

We are soon at the hotel,Mr Garmin gets it right, and we park up and go and check in. Whats next? Yep, food. Its hungry work all this riding.

Day 9 San Francisco to Monterey

0900 start with fuel, sorry gas, first on the agenda. The nearest station had no 89 or 91 octane so we went to one on the way to the bridge vista point where we had a group photo. The weather was cooler today but the sun was out.

The route followed the coast down to Santa Cruz on Highway 1 and provided lovely views out over the Pacific. The scenery changes every 20 miles, going from rocky shoreline to sandy beach and back again while the plants go from deciduous to pine trees to desert shrubs to sand.

Lunch was in a roadhouse restaurant which was busy, but they managed to fit us in. 6 of the group went on ahead to the sea-life centre to do a tour there while the rest of us went to a Steam Locomotion park. Sadly we were too early in the season and it was not fully open. We had a wander around and looked at the various facilities which were housed in re-cycled cabooses, and the station which thankfully had some seating in the shade of the sun to cool off.

Off again the 5 bikes headed for Monterey and the plan to do an advertised 17 mile drive round the peninsula before tea. We stop to take some pics and a woman comes along the beach path with her dog and exits onto the sidewalk beside us. The dog strains over to say hello to us and I bend down and give it the 'well you're a happy dog aren't you'. He wags his tail and is delighted to have a new friend. I make a big fuss of him and his owner says "well thats a scottish accent where are you from?" We meet Mrs Weir and have blether.
Sadly we only managed 5 miles when the route entered a state Park with a security person at the gatehouse. Seems the 'Drive' is for cars only, bikes not allowed. hmm.
Back to the hotel and get set for dinner.

Up the road not 10 mins walk was a large shopping centre with some eating places. Easiest to get to were a chinese and a pizza place. Somewhere was a grill we had been told was good, so off we set to find it. Its friday, its 8pm and its busy with folk, what are the chances of getting seats for 8? Not much you'd think but fortunately we were lucky. They could take us and what a meal. Angus steaks, all round I think, and they were delicious. Lalla's is the place if you get there.

Too late and too tired to do a blog and also with an earlier start next day, I head for bed. Another great day on Highway 1.

Day 8 San Francisco

0930 muster for Alcatraz so 0730 its a walk out for breakfast. There's an IHOP just round the corner which is perfect. Fuelled and ready we head for pier 33 for the ferry. Just as well we(Alan) have booked ahead online as the billboard says next available booking is friday. Group photo taken, we embark and alcatraz is now on the bow.
The intro video in the former stores area is very informative and the cell block audio tour guide is very well done with a fine balance between hard facts, sound effects and former staff voices. All in all it was impressive.
Back ashore 2hrs+ later and lunch is first. Something quick at the entrance to pier 39, then its off to get up the Coit Tower which provides superb views of the city and bay.
We decide to do the cable car museum and take one for a ride to get there. Technically its very interesting and plenty to read and see how it all works.

Finally a ride down the hill which is exciting (will the brakes work with all these folk onboard? -they do) and a looksee at how they spin the car round on the turntable at the bottom. Tourists are queueing for a ride up the hill and a trio are playing some jazz funk keeping them amused and hopefully getting a few bucks for their effort. (they are good)
Tonights meal is a standard at Dennys, just what is required. Trying for an early night as we are required for "props turning at 9". Another great day on our trip.

Day 7 Fort Bragg to San Francisco

Sunshine split the skys from the start, what a difference. At breakfast the routes for the gps were updated and we were more or less ready to go at 0900. First stop the gas station and today it was only $15 to top up. Its only $4.30 or so a gallon (6pts) which works out to £4 in uk.
I was last to leave the station behind Alan and Chris. We stopped at the red light waiting to turn left. The green lit and alan engaged gear and just as he moved a car shot through the red across his bow. That was close. Just shows you have to keep your wits about you. Steve the minibus driver says he always counts to 3 before moving off at lights, even if folk honk you for being slow.
That done we set off down highway 1, the scenery was fantastic. The rocky western coast looking magical with waves crashing over semi-submerged reefs. The road too was wonderful, a twisting turning ribbon hugging the clifftops. We passed through lovely small villages perched on cliff tops, Elk being one which the residents had outstanding views over the ocean. At on place the sea has reclaimed some land and houses are mid tumble into the sea. Shame.
One car in a hurry overtook Alan and I on a solid yellow, thats number 2 of the day.
Further on a 'kodak' moment was taken at a Vista point. There are large forests here and buzzards were soaring effortlessly on the onshore breeze coming up the cliffs.

1130 and its coffee time and a lovely hotel, Alexanders, where we have an early lunch instead. Not far south from here there is an option on the route - H1 or H101. Andy Hamilton and I choose H1, the rest go the straighter road.

Well H1 is a beauty from here to SF. A bikers dream, this is biking heaven. Halfway to the Golden Gate Andy and partner Candy, and I stop at a small place for a caffeine topup. Across the road is a barbers and andy decides to get his haircut. I go to find a bank and on returning to the barbers spot the old cash register. Don the barber says thats just old junk, go see the one in the western bar next door. Wow, two very old machines are still in place behind the bar, and as for the bar, straight out of 1890's or so.
We haven't seen too many other bikers on these roads. The weekends is when they all come out but today there have been 3 small groups on H1. Also not many are sport bikes, usually bigger Harleys but here is a Ducati, first I've seen.
After the bank I go to another hardware store. Not as good as the one in Napa but similar in size and an excellent stock of tools - handyman heaven;-)
We continue down H1 passing a couple of rundown restaurants that are decaying at the beachside. These must have been lovely places in their time.
Next we are twisting and turning around the shoreline. Maybe two miles later the road gains height and we are leaving the sea for now. A set of roadworks delays things but we get a wave from 4 bikes heading north.

Off again and its the freeway on-ramp next, but the traffic is soon slowing. We trickle through a tunnel and its stationary just at the exit. 4 into 2 is why but soon its over the bridge and the impressive skyline ahead. Slight confusion with the gps but we do get to the bridge vista point for some photos and then back onto the 101 into the city centre.
Very busy but the traffic is flowing and in no time we are at the hotel.

The hotel has its own underground parking which is very handy. Checkin and then quick change and head to pier 39 at fishermans wharf.

We go to Neptunes and arguably get the best table with a view of the bridge and the sun going down behind it - what and end to a perfect day.

G'night y'all.